This would make it far easier, however, if you don't then it's important to remember the retracting Crystal Chamber. You'll see I have five wires connected to the board because I'm already using 22 AWG wiring, I can probably just connect the two 22 AWG's to the board, with data, making a total of 3. So, another point you should watch is the wiring coming from the NXPL board and one point I've not yet clarified, but I'm happy to leave as is. Although the wire on the LED shows 24 AWG, I've changed that to 30 AWG since taking the photo. You need to make sure the LED fits fully into the hole (further than my photo shows) If you don't, you'll find your speaker struggles to fit and makes things a little tight and runs the risk of damaging your wiring. If you've not see one before, you can see it below. You'll also notice that I've drilled a 5 mm hole into this Speaker part which is for the 5 mm LED Accent. You can see the two small tubes you have to run your wires here, the openings also marry up perfectly to the Dimitri Shtok speaker part of the chassis (shown below). The reason for 22 AWG and PTFE coated is the diameter necessary to pass through the Rudy Pando crystal chamber. more/less strips, you'll probably have to change something. Using 22 AWG conducts 7 Amps which is necessary to run the 2-strip Neopixel blade I'm running, if you're running a different blade i.e. The 22 AWG wire should be PTFE or Teflon coated wires. 2 x Neopixel blade (124 pixels - 34 inch blade).So, as a refresher and to save folks from scrolling through these posts to piece things together, this is what my saber consists of. I'm here to detail what I've done, explain my mistake, and give you the final schematic that I've also proven to work. I have managed to do quite a lot to my saber, in fact, it was finished, but then I made a rookie mistake. Hi all, sorry I've not been updating this post, but you know how it goes. So (insert drum roll) I'm finally ready to start the build-proper Less wires to the board = easier soldering 24 AWG and up would need more wires which just won't physically fit through the copper tubing.Īlso, I was made aware that it is common practice to wire the blade connectors positives to the recharge port, which means only a single wire is soldered to the board. The 22 AWG wire is to allow me to pass the wire (capable of enough current) through Rudy Pando's Crystal Chamber. I have ditched the RGB Driver in this diagram, but I think I'm going to put that back in because it fits better in Dimitri Shtok's chassis and allows the LED to reach closer to the Crystal Chamber. With huge thanks to a couple of guys at the Thin-Neck Saber Fans Facebook group who thrashed this out with me on New Years Day.Īs you can see I've ditched the PeX, simply because it wouldn't be needed on the NB v4. So, after a long time of checking, rechecking and checking again, I've finally come to the wiring that I will need.
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